Trying not to contract Scurvy, free drinks at the Offshore Ale Co.,and Captain Jay and his 70 foot yacht.

I skip breakfast at the new guesthouse and head to Linda Jeans on the high street instead.  I need more fruit and vegetables in an effort to stave off the Type II diabetes that this American diet is likely to give me. And possible scurvy.  Linda Jeans is a small family restaurant, was doing a brisk breakfast trade, and was favoured by Bill Clinton when he popped into the island a couple of years ago. 

Later at the Offshore Ale House we are told at the door that food has stopped early due to a private party.  We  hang out at the bar anyway where the barman offers us a menu.  We tell him we've been told we are too late but he says he will slip in an order for us on the quiet.  He then tells us that the manager has told him to give us a free round of drinks as well.  No idea why.  At the bar we get chatting to Captain Jay and his first mate Chris who are sailing a 70 foot schooner from Nantucket to New York for overwintering and maintenance.  They invite us onto the boat for drinks.  It's an appealing prospect but erring on the side of caution we politely decline. In hindsight, I think we should have gone for it.

In Edgartown Janet finds a ring she likes and I in turn discover a beautiful fox fur hooded cape. Both are expensive and so we force ourselves to a take 24 hour cooling period before we buy.  Janet decides early the next morning and makes her purchase while I sit on the harbourside continuing to agonise.  In the end I capitulate too.  I am wondering why I am buying fur in 75 degree sunshine but the next morning when we get up the temperature has plummeted.  I seriously consider whether I will, in fact, need to wear it on the ferry to Cape Cod.

In the Atlantic Bar in Edgartown on our last afternoon on Martha's Vineyard we sit in the bar and watch the final race of the America's Cup.  We've seen the early heats during our stay in San Francisco and New Zealand had taken an impressive lead.  The Americans have roped in Ben Ainslie as a tactician and it pays off when they take and hold an impressive lead and go on to retain the cup.  A huge roar goes up from the clientele and staff.  We clap politely but really we were gunning for the Kiwis.

It's windy and cold as we wait for the ferry to take us to Hyannis where we will pick up a bus connection to Provincetown and then tomorrow the fast hydrofoil to Boston.  After unloading our stuff at the hotel we wander off to look around the town and discover, away from the town centre which is bustling with tourists and full of tourist tat, a lovely bar and restaurant called the Red Inn (www.redinn.com) which at that moment is offering happy hour cocktails and special price seafood.  It's quiet as we walk into the bar but the barman seems pleased to see us. The views of the harbour and sandbanks stretching out into the distance are breathtaking.